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Jackson’s Chameleon

Jackson’s Chameleon


Three-Horned Chameleon


Chamaeleo jacksonii


Description


Jackson’s chameleons are the quintessential chameleon species; medium-sized, mostly green with the males having three forward oriented horns on their nose/forehead. Most females do not have horns or have only small or poorly developed horns. There are three subspecies of Jackson’s chameleons: the True Jackson’s Chameleon, C. j. jacksonii; the Dwarf Jackson’s Chameleon, C. j. merumontanus; and the Yellow-Crested Jackson’s Chameleon, C. j. xantholophus. Although each of the subspecies exhibits slight color variances, they are all predominantly within the green spectrum but occasionally exhibit yellows, blues, browns, greys and blacks. They have a saw-toothed dorsal crest and prehensile tails. They are 12-15 inches (30-38 centimeters) in total length as adults and can live more than 8 years, with males being the longer lived of the sexes.

Natural Habitat


Jackson’s chameleons are native to woodlands and tropical montane areas of east Africa: Kenya, Tanzania and Uganda. These areas are lush, foggy, humid and (relatively) cool with average rainfalls of over 3 inches (7.5 centimeters). They are generally found at altitudes between 6,000 to 8,000 feet (1800-2400 meters), but are occasionally found at even higher elevations. They are arboreal and only descend to the forest floor to change locations or to flee predators. Jackson’s spend most of their time high in trees (often over thirty feet/9 meters off the ground), but are also fond of shrubs and understory plants. Their native habitat is very similar that of Hawaii and Florida and populations of Jackson’s have become established in both states (although the Florida population may no longer exist).

Artificial Habitat


Jackson’s come from a tropical montane climate and therefore lend themselves well to naturalistic vivaria. Jackson’s chameleons should be housed in screen or partial enclosures. Since they are a medium-sized chameleon their enclosures should be a minimum of 16” x 16” x 36” (40 cm x 40 cm x 92 cm) with larger being better. Since they are arboreal, enclosures should be vertically oriented and should be heavily vegetated. Branches and sturdy plants and trees such as Ficus, Schefflera and Dracena can be used. Jackson’s are hard on plants so only robust species should be used. Artificial foliage can also be used and has the added benefit of being able to be scrubbed. Plants and branches should run from the bottom to the top of the cage with some horizontal branches affixed sporadically for perching. Substrate can be potting soil, coco bedding, cypress mulch or leaf litter or a combination of these.

Jackson’s chameleons absolutely need UV light. While this can be provided by commercially available UV lights, chameleons just seem to do better when they are given access to natural sunlight. In all but the most inhospitable climates this should be possible for at least a few months out of the year. When housed inside, Jackson’s should be provided with 10-12 hours of artificial UV lighting, which is most optimally provided using a UV spotlight, which doubles as a basking light. The spotlight should be placed about 6 inches (15 cm) above the enclosure and slightly to one side. The basking location should provide a temperature of 83-85 degrees Fahrenheit. Jackson’s thermoregulate by moving up and down, so the cage should be tall enough that the temperature drops 10-15 degrees at the bottom of the enclosure.

Jackson’s, like all chameleons, do not readily drink from water bowls. Chameleons get their water requirements from dew and rain that accumulates on plant leaves or other portions of their habitat. Subsequently, the best way to provide a chameleon with water is through the use of a drip cup (a cup with a small hole punched in the bottom so that when water is placed in it, it slowly drips into the enclosure). Water can also be provided when plants are watered by watering through the top of the screen so that the water drips onto the plant.

Jackson’s chameleons come from areas of high humidity and require the same in a captive environment. Humidity levels should be kept between 50-70%. The best way of achieving this is by misting the enclosure at regular intervals. The use of a water retaining substrate coupled with the basking light will also help maintain these levels. Keeping the substrate moist, but not wet, will allow some natural evaporation and increase humidity. Another way of creating humidity is to use a water bowl in conjunction with an air stone; the percolation will slowly add moisture to the air.

Diet


Jackson’s chameleons are carnivorous and eat most small to medium sized insects including, but not limited to: crickets, roaches, spiders, flies, moths, grasshoppers, butterflies, superworms, mealworms, wax worms, horned worms, and silk worms. Snail and slugs are also occasionally taken. As with all lizards, a varied diet is crucial to maintaining health. Prey items should be dusted with a calcium and mineral supplement every other feeding.

Caveats


Jackson’s chameleons, being a montane species, are less tolerant of high temperatures than many chameleons. Under no circumstances should they be subjected to temperatures in excess of 90 degrees Fahrenheit for extended periods of time. Congruently, Jackson’s are also more prone to dehydration than many other species and should be provided with some form of trickling water daily.

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