Green Water Dragon

Chinese Water Dragon

Physignathus cocincinus

Description

Green water dragons are large, arboreal lizards that look a little like an iguana, but unlike iguanas, do not have a dewlap. They are generally green in coloration (yeah, really), but they do range somewhat from olive to bluish. Babies tend to be darker colored than adults, and are flanked by three to five light colored lateral stripes. Males develop pronounced crests on their neck, back and tail. They are one of the most popular and common lizards in the pet industry and have been studied and kept in private collections for almost a century. They can grow to over 30 inches long (76 centimeters), but lengths of 22-24 inches (55-60 centimeters) are more typical. They can live 15+ years in captivity.

Natural Habitat

Green water dragons are native to Southeast Asia; Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, Thailand, Myanmar, and southern China, where they are found primarily in lowland tropical forests. They are always found in relatively close proximity to water, with an apparent preference for the foliage adjacent to slow moving rivers or streams. They sleep and bask on the branches of trees overhanging or abutting water so they can retreat to the water in the face of perceived danger. Average daily temperatures throughout much of their range are 75-85 degrees Fahrenheit, with relative humidity in the same general 75-85% range.

Artificial Habitat

Green water dragons require spacious enclosures that are vertically oriented. Enclosures should have a good vertical height or at least 3 feet (approximately 1 meter) with taller being better. Enclosures should be furnished with branches, sticks and small trunks set at varying heights to facilitate climbing. Thick plants and shrubs (strong enough to support the dragon’s weight) should also be incorporated to make the dragon feel more at ease. A basking light and source of UV should be provided. This can be achieved by using a spot/flood light in conjunction with a fluorescent UV bulb, or by using any of the commercially available UV combing spot lights. A basking spot of 90-95 degrees Fahrenheit surface temperature should be provided. The temperature should drop 10-15 degrees elsewhere in the enclosure to provide a good thermal gradient. With taller enclosures, this is usually not a problem since the basking light is several feet from the lower portion of the habitat. Green water dragons also as the name implies, enjoy water—the larger the water area that can be provided the better. An ideal situation would be 1/3 land to 2/3 water for the bottom of the enclosure with multiple branches and plants placed in tiers above the ground. Nighttime temperatures ideally should not drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit, but brief periods of lesser temperatures can be tolerated. Under no circumstances should green water dragons be exposed to temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit as they can be fatal (unless an area of artificial warmth is provided).

Diet

In captivity, green water dragons are omnivorous and eat an impressive array of foods. Known prey items include: mealworms, superworms, wax worms, crickets, moths, butterflies, bettles, earthworms, fish, crayfish, frogs, and small birds, mice, rats, snakes and lizards (including their own young). They also enjoy dark leafy greens (kale, bok choi, endive, romaine lettuce, etc.), dandelion greens, hibiscus, carrots, bananas, grapes, tomatoes, apples, melons, strawberries, plums, cauliflower, cantaloupe, brussel sprouts, and cherries. While it is unlikely that an individual dragon will eat all of these items, it is equally likely that among this variety there will be at least a few items that the dragon will enjoy. Also, palates change with time and age, so what may be refused initially should be tried again later. As always, food items should be dusted with an appropriate vitamin and mineral substitute every second or third feeding.

Caveats

Because these are relatively large lizards, they should be provided with large, tall habitats. Males are territorial and adult males should not be housed together. During the breeding season, adult females may also be aggressive towards one another. The larger the enclosure, the less problematic these encounters are likely to be.